Drifting into Tokyo
It was the first morning in Tokyo. Just arrived the night before, but late at the hotel. Everyone was still sleeping but I woke up early and excited to start exploring the country I'd dreamt of.
I found this small coffee place in the street of our hotel, they are called kissaten or kissa for short. The small traditional ones. After visiting several different ones, I discovered they are my kind of places. Usually retro, vintage, decent coffee and simple food options like toast or a simple sandwich.
But this was my first one, and it earned its place in my memory. I was greeted by an older Japanese man, slightly eccentric but charming in his own way. I read before arriving to Japan what the culture was, so I knew what to do. Wait until he appointed me a place to sit. The place was empty, decorated with random paraphernalia, board games, mangas etc. Small wooden tables, and uncomfortable looking wooden chairs.
I took my seat at the designated table and waited for my authentic first omotenashi experience (the Japanese hospitality). He came to my table and handed me the warm cloth to clean my hands (oshibori), and a glass of cold water with the menu. He said, sorry no English. I said daijobu-des (it’s okay), and pointed to my phone for translation. He smiled and went away.
Following the culture expectation, I raised my hand. Suminasen! (excuse me). And he came back to my table. Espresso kudasai. He confirmed and went ahead. I lit my cigarette, since it was okay to smoke inside (another big personal win of the place).
Moments later he arrived with my espresso, I thanked him and started to enjoy my moment. A little while after he came back to the table, presenting a small portable ashtray. I accepted with two hands as is the cultural thing to do. He showed me on his phone the translation to tell me what it was. I felt deeply grateful for such a random small gesture, I thanked him.
I decided to try the egg sandwich, so I called him over again and ordered. I just kept looking around, smoking another one and taking the whole experience in. I saw him mumbling, walking back and forth, almost pulling his hair and being worried. I didn’t think much about it and then he came to my table again. Holding his phone up I read that he just found out all the bread has mold, so he couldn’t make my sandwich. I took my phone again too, told him that it’s really okay and I’ll come back another day. He read it and his face just lit up. He was so happy. I ordered another espresso to close my morning.
So instead of having breakfast there, I figured I could cross off another thing of the bucketlist and so I walked over to the closest 7-11 store. There it was, the legendary pre-packed egg salad sandwich. I paid with the small amount of cash I had on hand already with the hands-free machines. They don’t like to touch cash, so all cashless. But the machine spit out my change in coins, including the first blessing of that day. My first 5 yen coin, which I still keep on me to this day. 5 yen coins are used to make prayers at shrines, plus they are different than most coins due the design and center hole.
You are not supposed to eat on the street, especially while walking so I just went back to the hotel room. Took my first bite and I felt it, true to the legend. The bread fluffy, with a hint of milk. The egg salad itself creamy and bursting with flavor. It tasted more fresh than I could imagine from a pre-packed sandwich from a store.
The girls still hadn't woken up after my sandwich, so I decided to check out a nearby shrine. It’s a shrine for cats, perfect for me. I decided to check it out, as I entered the sacred grounds walking through the tori gate I realized I already forgot the first step. Bowing before you enter a shrine area, but I just slowly looked around. I found the cleansing well, tried my best to remember the correct steps and picked up the ladle with some water. I cleaned my hands, cupped my hand to clean my mouth as is the way. I suddenly felt weird about just spitting it out and swallowed in panic instead. Not a lot of people around, but enough for me to feel self conscious. I just laughed it off and made my way up to the shrine. Still feeling too self conscious, I just froze a bit and decided to leave it at that and instead take some photos around the area.
One particular area stood out, the place where all the written prayers were hanging. I read a bunch of them which were in several languages. People wishing their passed away cat was doing well, their lost cat, or cat at home. So much love for cats concentrated in one single spot, it was amazing to feel.
I went to the kiosk to see what they had, before coming to Japan, I knew I wanted an omamori (amulet). They were there, but I didn’t feel it. Another small type of amulet caught my eye and moved my heart. A small golden coin on a red string with a little cat bell. I decided to get that instead. I felt I made the right choice, and left the area. And as the custom is, I turned around, and bowed to say goodbye to the shrine after passing through the tori gate again.
Back at the hotel room I took my first 5 yen coin and combined it with the lucky cat amulet, my first full personal amulet was completed. And the girls woke up shortly after..